Fabric Types for Custom Apparel: A Practical Selection Guide by GSM and Use Case

Fabric selection for custom apparel comes down to three variables: weight (GSM), composition (fibre content), and structure (knit or weave). These three determine how the fabric drapes, how it takes print, how it wears across seasons, and how it behaves after washing. This guide lists fourteen fabrics used in POD production, compares them by those three variables, and maps each to the product types it suits best.

How to Read Fabric Specifications

GSM (grams per square metre) measures fabric weight. A higher GSM means a heavier, denser fabric. The conversion to ounces per square yard is approximately GSM ÷ 33.9, so 180 GSM equals 5.3 oz. North American blank suppliers typically quote in ounces; Asian and European suppliers quote in GSM. The practical ranges for POD apparel run from 120 GSM (lightweight summer) to 450 GSM (heavyweight fleece).

Composition determines print compatibility. 100% cotton takes DTF and DTG prints well but cannot be sublimated. 100% polyester takes sublimation but rejects water-based DTG ink. Blends split the difference and are the most versatile for DTF. The relationship between composition and print method is covered in DTF, sublimation, and embroidery comparison.

Structure refers to how the fabric is constructed. Knit fabrics (jersey, interlock, french terry) stretch and recover, which makes them the default for tees, hoodies, and activewear. Woven fabrics (canvas, oxford, faille) hold shape without stretching, which suits bags, aprons, and structured outerwear.

Fabric Comparison Table

Fabric Selection by Product Type

T-Shirts and Casual Tops

Imitation cotton (170 GSM) and cotton plain weave (160 GSM) are the two fabrics that cover most POD tee production. Imitation cotton is a polyester blend that mimics the hand feel of cotton while accepting sublimation, making it the choice for all-over print tees. Cotton plain weave is true cotton, which takes DTF and DTG prints with better colour density but cannot be sublimated.

For premium tees, cotton sweatshirt fabric (250 GSM) gives a heavier hand feel and better print density. The weight and drape behaviour that drives these choices is explained in fabric weight and drape for custom clothing.

Sports and Activewear

Mitong mesh (140-190 GSM) is the standard for sports jerseys because it breathes, dries fast, and takes sublimation prints at full saturation. Bird's eye (160 GSM) serves the same function with a different texture, suited to quick-dry training wear.

For sublimated jerseys specifically, the GSM range of 140-190 maps to different sports: 140-160 for running and cycling, 170-190 for basketball and esports. The selection logic is in which GSM works best for sublimated jerseys.

Hoodies and Sweatshirts

Cotton sweatshirt fabric (250 GSM) and air layer (200-230 GSM) are the two options. Cotton sweatshirt is 100% cotton and takes DTF prints well; air layer is a polyester blend that accepts sublimation and offers better moisture management. Thick needle strip (270 GSM) sits at the heavier end and produces structured sweatpants and premium hoodies.

For terry and fleece comparisons specific to hoodies, the guide to terry and fleece fabrics for custom hoodies breaks down the options by weight and warmth.

Dresses and Fitted Garments

Milk silk (120-250 GSM) is the default for dresses and fitted garments because it drapes fluidly and accepts sublimation. Elastic cloth (120 GSM) serves fitted styles where stretch matters. Both are polyester blends, so DTF and sublimation work; DTG does not.

Summer and Lightweight

Faille (120 GSM) is a woven polyester fabric suited to beach pants and summer shirts. It holds shape without stretching and takes sublimation for tropical and floral designs. The lightweight category also includes pearl mesh (190 GSM) for breathable multi-purpose garments.

Winter and Heavyweight

Crystal super soft (330 GSM) and corn kernels (300 GSM) are the winter-weight options. Crystal super soft has a plush hand feel suited to warm clothing and blankets. Corn kernels offers moisture-wicking performance in a heavy fabric, which is unusual and suits cold-weather activewear.

Fabric Testing Before Production

Order one sample in each candidate fabric before committing to a production run. Hang them side by side to compare drape, photograph them under the same light, and wash one sample five times to check how the fabric behaves after the first wash cycle. Cotton-rich fabrics shift weight and drape after washing, and a garment that hung well in the factory can look limp by the third cycle.

The testing routine and the cost-effective way to run it is covered in how to test print on demand products cheaply. The cost is one unit per fabric, and it prevents a full size run built on the wrong hand feel.

For production specs, both the weight and the drape should go into the tech pack alongside the fibre blend and the intended silhouette. The document structure is in apparel development timeline for custom brands.

FAQ

What GSM is best for POD t-shirts?

150-200 GSM covers most POD t-shirt production. 170 GSM imitation cotton suits all-over print tees; 180 GSM cotton suits DTF and DTG printed tees. Below 150 GSM the fabric feels thin and clings; above 220 GSM the tee reads as heavyweight streetwear.

What fabric is used for sublimation printing?

100% polyester fabrics (minimum 85% for acceptable results) are used for sublimation. In the CatKissFish range, mitong mesh (140-190 GSM), imitation cotton (170 GSM), and air layer (200-230 GSM) all accept sublimation. Cotton fabrics cannot be sublimated.

What is the difference between knit and woven fabric?

Knit fabrics are constructed by interlocking loops of yarn, which gives them stretch and recovery. Tees, hoodies, and activewear use knit fabrics. Woven fabrics are constructed by crossing warp and weft yarns at right angles, which gives them stability without stretch. Bags, aprons, and structured shirts use woven fabrics.

How does fabric weight affect print quality?

Heavier fabric (200+ GSM) generally produces better print density because the fibres absorb more ink and the tighter surface holds detail. Lightweight fabric (120-150 GSM) can show ink through the back and may require a white underbase to prevent colour shift.

What fabric should I use for POD hoodies?

Cotton sweatshirt fabric (250 GSM) for DTF-printed hoodies, or air layer (200-230 GSM) for sublimated hoodies. Thick needle strip (270 GSM) for premium heavyweight hoodies. The full comparison is in terry and fleece fabrics for custom hoodies.

How many fabrics does CatKissFish stock?

CatKissFish stocks over 100 commonly used fabrics across knit, woven, and fleece categories. The fabric range is available through the custom product page, with production running 3-5 days on most orders.

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